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Abstract

True to the stereotype of Italians, life is all about food and family for Joe Gazzano.

Four generations of his family have worked at Gazzano’s deli since arriving from Italy’s Amalfi coast more than 100 years ago.

Alfonso Mariani set up shop in what became known as Little Italy in Clerkenwell in 1911. Now, his great-grandson has decided the time is right for the Farringdon Road business to change hands.

Joe’s values – top-quality food at affordable prices and the best service – can feel out of place today, he says.

He is the first generation without another family member able to help him out, and the work has simply become too much.

“Three generations died on the shop floor,” Joe says. “Do I want to be the fourth? They died young. I thought: ‘I’m not going down here.’ A few of the sparks have gone. I’ve busted enough guts and I don’t want to bust another one and not get anywhere. I’d rather let someone else come in and go for it.”

But there are no regrets. Joe grew up working in the deli under the watchful eye of his dad, also Joe. “You’re born into it,” he says. “As long as your chin was above the counter you could help out.” Joe’s dad, who was born and brought up in Aberdeen Park, Highbury, was a friend and supplier to TV chefs Jamie Oliver and Antonio Carluccio and the unofficial Italian caterer to The Guardian newspaper when it was based just down the road.

The shop became known for supplying the best imported buffalo mozzarella, parmesan cheese and cured pork.

Joe senior instilled a passion for the best-quality produce. “My father was meticulous about it and made us the same,” he says. “But unfortunately the general public don’t put that much importance on it.”

When Joe’s dad died aged 60 of lung cancer in 2010, the family were devastated, though Joe soldiered on.

But the strain of working 12-hour days, seven days a week took its toll on him and his partner. “I hit 40 and I still hadn’t done anything for a year – not seen my mates, not been out. I was forcing myself to shut on a Sunday just so I can have a day off.”

Luckily, his family bought the whole of 167-169 Farringdon Road. With rising property prices, Joe can lease out the building to support his new projects. He wants to become a food critic and is trying to get back into acting.

Did he worry what his father would have thought about selling the family business? “I’ve cut emotion and sentiment off,” Joe says. “I’ve decided to leave. I wish the new owners all the luck in the world and I’ll help them wherever I can.

“When my father was told he was terminal we sat down had a chat. He said: ‘I was lucky enough to meet mum when I was young. My only regret is I haven’t seen you settle down.’ He said, man-to-man, if you find business takes over your life and you can’t have a family life, you have permission to do whatever you want.”